One of the most prized wild mushrooms in Catalan cooking, ou de reig (Amanita caesarea), also known as Caesar’s mushroom, has a delicate, nutty flavour and firm texture that make it one of the very few wild mushrooms genuinely good eaten raw (substitute ceps/porcini if you can’t get them, or just use brown chestnut mushrooms). It’s traditionally served simply, sliced paper-thin and dressed with nothing more than good olive oil, salt and a little parmesan, to let its flavour speak for itself. A scattering of golden pangrattato adds a welcome crunch against the silky slices.
A note on safety: ou de reig belongs to the Amanita genus, which also includes some of the deadliest poisonous mushrooms, including the death cap. Never eat any Amanita species unless it has been positively identified by an expert or bought from a reputable market or supplier. This is not a mushroom for casual foraging.
Ingredients
For the carpaccio
4 small-medium ou de reig (Caesar’s mushrooms), very fresh and firm (or subsitute fresh porcini/ceps, or brown chestnut)
1 lemon
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
30g parmesan, shaved
Flaky sea salt and black pepper
A few fresh chives, finely chopped, to finish (optional)
For the pangrattato
40g coarse breadcrumbs, from day-old sourdough or country bread
1½ tbsp olive oil
1 small garlic clove, finely grated
Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
A pinch of salt
Method
Make the pangrattato first. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, add the breadcrumbs and toast, stirring often, for 4–5 minutes until evenly golden and crisp. Stir in the garlic for the last 30 seconds, then tip onto a plate lined with kitchen paper. Season with a pinch of salt, stir through the lemon zest and leave to cool.
Clean the mushrooms very gently with a soft brush or a slightly damp cloth. Avoid washing them under water, as they can absorb moisture. Trim the very base of the stems.
Using a very sharp knife or a mandoline, slice the mushrooms as thinly as possible, both cap and stem.
Arrange the slices in a single layer over a large plate or individual plates, overlapping slightly.
Squeeze over the lemon juice and drizzle generously with the olive oil.
Season with flaky sea salt and a light crack of black pepper. Leave for a couple of minutes to let the lemon and oil just begin to soften the slices.
Scatter over the shaved parmesan, the chives and finally the pangrattato.
Serve immediately. This dish is best eaten the moment it’s dressed, while the mushroom is at its freshest and the crumbs are still crunchy.
